Wine Reviews 2017
Raymond Chan Wine Review - Urlar Riesling 2014
Friday, February 3rd, 2017
Urlar Gladstone Riesling 2014
There are significant developments at Urlar, the Gladstone wine venture in the Wairarapa established by Angus and Davina Thomson in 2004. With organics as a base philosophy, Urlar was certified BioGro organic in 2010, but the Thomsons have recently made commitments to biodynamic winegrowing. Long-serving winemaker Guy McMaster, who was an integral part of the vineyard and wine style evolution has left, and his position was filled by the highly experienced and thoughtful Carol Bunn from Central Otago in time for the 2016 harvest. Carol, too, is devoted to the natural approach of winegrowing, and her track record of making numerous award-winning wines will see Urlar make strong progress. Here, I review the 2014 Urlar Riesling, made by Guy McMaster, held back for further bottle maturation and increased complexity, and now released by the Thomsons and Carol Bunn.
Urlar Gladstone Riesling 2014 - 4 Stars
Brilliant straw-yellow colour with light golden hues, paler on the rim. The nose is harmoniously concentrated with deep and intense aromas of limes and ripe citrus fruits interwoven with yellow florals and toasty secondary complexities, unfolding nuances of honeysuckle and minerals. Dry to taste and medium-bodied, the palate features a stylishly concentrated core of lime fruit entwined with layers of toast and notes of honey and minerals. The fruit possesses subtle richness and grows in intensity, and is enlivened by fresh, brisk acidity. The wine flows along a fine-textured line of fruit extract with a little grip, leading to an elegant, nuanced, dry finish. This is an elegantly concentrated, moderately rich dry Riesling with lime and complex toasty flavours on a lively palate with a fine-textured flow. Serve as an aperitif, with seafood and Asian fare over the next 4-5 years. Hand-picked fruit cool-fermented in stainless-steel to 12.5% alc. and 6.5 g/L RS, TA 8.4 g/L and pH 2.9, the wine aged on lees. Certified BioGro organic. 18.0+/20 Jan 2017.